June 1760 : Bishop Richard Pococke visited the area : Tours in Scotland 1747, 1750, 1760 by Pococke, Richard, bishop of Meath, 1704-1765; Kemp, Daniel William A publication for the Scottish History Society - pdf held in archive
Also http://deriv.nls.uk/dcn23/1265/8639/126586391.23.pdf
Ardchattan - Letter XIV pages 67 - 72 (which is p 148 of the pdf) - fascinating report on A "TOWN" between what we now call Craigneuk and Beregonium ??? except that in this account they are one and the same things .. and that Dun McSneam is the other side (now Beregonium)
Travels of Pococke 1747, 1750, 1760
1760 Letter XIV
Isle of Mull June 7th 1760
Dear Madam
On the 4th I set out westward from Inveraray and went by the Millitary road which is continued five miles to the west on the side of the hill over the Aray, where in all parts the Duke is enclosing the woods with a dry wall, and cover'd with sods. They have a great number of Roe Deer (1) here which are about as big as an Antelope - but not as delicate, as I think being longer behind. They are great destroyers of the growth of young trees - as well as hares. I came to bad road for about two miles and a half over the hill, till we arrived near to Lough Awe, which lake is 24 miles long and fresh water. We went two miles to the south to Port Sonachan ferry. Here the hills are common whin or fire stone. Towards the north end of the lake is Castle Culhorn (2) on an Island which was the first seat of the family of Broadalbin ; and eight miles to the south is Inch Chonnel Castle (3) on another Isle the first seat of the family of Argyle. Where we turned to the south of Ardbrache (4) they lately found a vault with an urn and bones in it.
We crossed this Lough in a Boat, which hold only two large horses, and they put Boughs at the bottom to preserve the boat which is slight; it is about a mile over; we went on six miles to Lough Etive, where a river from Lough Awe falls into it which is called Inver Awe (the outlet of the Awe). I crossed this river to see what I took to be a camp which had something of the air of a Roman fortification, but it was occasioned only by the straight sides of the Bank on the eminence, and there was no sign of any entrenchment any other way, so that if any fortification it was probably British.
Over this is Cruhaun (5) Mountain something less than 1445 yards which is the height of Benevis (5) near Fort William.
We returned and crossed over Lough Etive about half a
[lots of reference notes to transcribe]
mile broad in the same kind of boat. Here the Rocks are grey granate. We had to the right beautifull wood on the rocky hills and in about 3 miles came to Ardchattin, Mr Campbell's house build on the site of an old priory of Cistercians of Vallis Catrium (1) The west end only of the Choir is remaining and is Saxon architecture. The other part is new modelled. It was founded by Duncan MacLoud from whom the McDouglas's of Lorn are descended. It was annexed to the Bishoprick of Argyle by Jas VIth in 1617. In 1573 Jno Campbell the Prior was made Bishop of the Isles.
On a hill over this priory is the Old Parish Church which on account of the saint it is dedicated to is hand in great veneration. His name was [M]Hoiden or as 'tis pronounc'd Voidan being call'd Bailim Voidam. [2]
We went on in the same beautifull country having Lough Etive to the right, and came to the end of the mountains which terminate in a perpendicular rock exactly like the ancient Anxur now called Terracina in the way from Rome to Naples. This rock was called Dun Vallin Re (the hill of the Kings town) and by the Cromwelian soldiers Craig Nuke, and this is the entrance, so that the ancient city rock seems to have been called Vallin or Ballin Re (the City of the King) In the new map of Scotland it is called Berigonium and seem'd to have been anciently the Chief City in Scotland, and I was told that Buchanan gives it that name. Cambden calls it Beregonium [3] a Castle wherein the Courts of Justic were anciently kept, but what foundation there is for this name I cannot form any
[ many more notes to transcribe]
judgement. This rock consists of large pebbles and stones cemented together, and there seemed to me to be some Iron ore in a sort of Dust between them. Just within it is the Church dedicated to Saint Columbus and being called Kill[1] gives names to the Hamlet near it.
A quarter of an English measured mile to the west is a Rocky hill extending a furlong from South to North and close to the Sea, this is called the Dun McSneam [2] (the Fortress of McSneam), all over it are the marks of the foundations of Buildings. In the Castle etc,, they show the place were the well was, and it is now so moist, that Flaggs grow about it. From the other Rock to this is an Elevated Bank which is supposed to have been a stree, and is called the Salt Market, there seem to have been houses towards the sea and to the north; there are being a sort of terrance on each side; and to the north is a small bog which might have been a pond to supply the town with water. There is a long stone on the south side of it. Before I came to the first rock called Ballin Re I saw two Carns[3] consisting of heaps of stones. From the north end of this on the edge of the bog are signs of another street extending about a furlong to the west, towards another rocky hill, and this is called the meal Market, which might be a suburb of the town. The sea seems to have left this place, for the ground between this
[more note to transcribe]
last street and the sea consists of such pebbles as are on the beach. They have a tradition that the Scots from Ireland landed here.
From this place to the passage over to Sr Duncan Campbels, it is about a mile, but when the Tyde is in, it is a mile further to the West. This seat is situated on a head of Land a Peninsula, which extends to the South about a mile and is divided by little vales into four or five long narrow hills covered with wood. The Highest of them is to the West on which on a rock covered also with wood and projecting to the East, Lady Campbel built a square tower in 1754 consisting of four arches on a basement formed into three steps; it is about fifty feet hight, and a wall is built on each side between the piers with a semi-circular window in the top of each, to give light to the staircase. There is a fine prospect from it of the Isles to the South, and of the mountains to the North, and it has a most beautiful effect as one approaches from the East. At this Tower we saw the Isle of Kerera where there is a fine harbour, on which, at Oban on the Continent opposite this Island they are building a Custom house to facilitate the export of herrings, and other Salt fish and provision, the Custom house being now at Fort William. South east of that we saw the Isle of Scarba between which and Jura is the gulph of Cory Beckan [1] where there is a whirlpool which has an effect on ships and the common people say they have been sunk in it.
To the west of Jura, Colonsa, where there was an Abbey of Canons Regular brought from Holyrood House, and founded by the Lords of the Isles. At the Isle of Eysdal [2] is a slate quarry, and on the Continenet near it at Ardmaddy is a quarry of White and Liver coloured marble belonging to the Earl of Broadalbin, which I have mentioned before.
Sir Duncan's place was called Ardmuckmish [3] (the height of the morning)[?] because the morning sun comes on it, but Sir Duncan has given it the name of Loughtnell from a part of his Estate which is near it. This penisular is much dressed by
[1] Coryvrechan
[2] Easdale
[3] Ardmucknish or Lochnell house. It was greatly added to by Sir Duncans son, General Campbell. In 1850 it was destroyed by fire.
Sir Duncan who has cultivated the land and preserved the wood. He has a very good well finished house, and a staircase and back stair very well contrived at the back of it in a bow which consists of five sides; nor must the Hermit's garden be forgot among the Curiosities of this place. I here saw a head and horns [1] which I take to be of the Urus I have seen abroad, and is mentioned by Caesae in his Commentaries, this Creature being a native of the furthermost part of Germany, Poland, and Hungary. It was found with the bones in a bog at Lismore Island, two of the bones of such an animal found in another bog there I took with me. In Lismore was the seat of the Bishop of Argyllshire, so that probably some Bishop having seen this animal when he was going to Rome, might bring two of them to Lismore.
I saw here the Area Theophrasti [2] which bears a round fruit, and is falsely called the Service tree.. I am .. etc
[1] The Bos primigenius, described minutely, with measurements, in article "Lismore, Old Stat Ac Vol xxi, P 426 see Proc. Roy. Phy Soc vol ii p 112
[2] Pyrus Aria Ehrh White Beam "Sorbus sylvestrs, Aria Theophrasti dicta, The wild Service called Aria - Parkinsons herbal, (Theatrum Botanicum) London 1640 p1421
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